During my visits to the city I am accompanied by Viennese friends around restaurants and cafés. For an Italian, eating well is fundamental, a moment of shared pleasure, and the Viennese flavors and scents are an unmissable revelation. But I am an art historian, and for me the museums, the architecture of the Secession, Klimt are an even stronger call. The Museum of Applied Arts, the MAK is one of the most inspiring museums I have ever seen.